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Booze-free 91Ƶliquor91Ƶ stores rise, as B.C. craft brewing boom hits rough times

Changing attitudes about alcohol having an impact on the business of drinking
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Mocktails store owner, Angela Hansen is pictured in Vancouver, B.C., Wednesday, Jan. 8, 2025. THE CANADIAN PRESS/Ethan Cairns

Whatever your tipple, Angela Hansen91Ƶs liquor store on Vancouver91Ƶs Commercial Drive has stock to satisfy, from Prosecco to tequila 91Ƶ so long as you don91Ƶt want any actual liquor.

Hansen91Ƶs 91Ƶalcohol free liquor store91Ƶ Mocktails opened last March, and just a few days into the new year, she was anticipating a 91Ƶboom91Ƶ for her business.

91ƵDry January, I think is gonna be a big thing for the alcohol-free world,91Ƶ she said, referring to the global movement to cut back on alcohol this month. 91ƵSome people are begrudgingly doing it, and others are very, very enthusiastic to do it, and they91Ƶre excited that they have this. You don91Ƶt have to do Dry January with a Coca-Cola or something like that.91Ƶ

It91Ƶs not the only business catering to the market 91Ƶ just a block away is The Drive Canteen, a snack-bar that offers 91Ƶsophisticated non-alcoholic beverages91Ƶ in its store. In Port Coquitlam, B.C., there91Ƶs Bevees, a 91Ƶbooze-free bottle shop91Ƶ that opened in November 2023.

The rise of stores like Mocktails and others comes as health concerns around alcohol rise 91Ƶ and as British Columbia91Ƶs once-booming craft beer industry goes through tough times. A series of high-profile brewers have closed down or are in financial strife; many cite economic conditions as well as a shift in drinking preferences.

It91Ƶs unclear whether greater awareness of health risks associated with alcohol are reducing demand, but the rise of booze-free options offer alternatives to those seeking to cut back after an alcohol-fuelled holiday season.

91ƵWe91Ƶre coming out of December, which is like the heaviest drinking month of the year for most people,91Ƶ said Dr. Tim Naimi, director of the University of Victoria91Ƶs Canadian Institute for Substance Use Research.

The research body launched an online tool this month that allows individuals to calculate their alcohol risks based on their consumption, and Naimi said it91Ƶs important for consumers to make 91Ƶinformed decisions.91Ƶ

The risks of excessive alcohol consumption are well-documented, but have come into sharper focus in Canada since January 2023, when the government-supported Canadian Centre on Substance Use and Addiction said the risk of cancer rises at much lower levels of alcohol consumption than previously thought.

Any more than two standard drinks a week put people at higher risk, it said in its report.

Last week, the U.S. Surgeon General released a new advisory about alcohol and the risks of cancer it carries, calling for health warning labels on alcohol products.

Naimi was involved in the research that went into updating the CCSA alcohol guidance, and said it is 91Ƶcommon sense91Ƶ for the U.S. Surgeon General to call for better labelling.

91ƵOther packaged food and beverage products in Canada require quite a bit of information. But if I buy a bottle of Scotch, it just says 40 per cent (alcohol by volume) and that91Ƶs pretty much it.91Ƶ

Naimi said a lot of information consumers get about alcohol comes from the industry, and the calculator tool employs 91Ƶgood up-to-date science91Ƶ to inform people of their health risks.

91ƵBut more importantly, it91Ƶs just for people who are considering cutting back,91Ƶ he said.

The upheaval of the COVID-19 pandemic saw alcohol consumption peak, Naimi said.

91ƵAlcohol consumption was at an all-time high during COVID and it91Ƶs come down a little bit to more like pre-COVID levels,91Ƶ he said. 91ƵI don91Ƶt think it91Ƶs changed that much.91Ƶ

For some in the booze business, though, the aftermath of the pandemic has coincided with tough times.

Award-winning Andina Brewing closed its East Vancouver brewery, just a dozen or so blocks away from Mocktails, in April 2023, after six years in business. Other closures followed, including Burnaby91Ƶs Studio Brewing that permanently closed in December 2023, then Riot Brewing in Chemainus on Vancouver Island a month later.

In a farewell message, Studio Brewing cited 91Ƶconsumer preference shifting away from craft beer91Ƶ as well as other economic challenges.

After a decade as one of Vancouver91Ƶs smallest brewers, Callister Brewing shut down around the same time as Studio and Riot brewing. But it had a fallback.

While the company cited rising costs at its brewery site, it also said there was a need to focus on the 91Ƶrapid growth91Ƶ of its non-alcoholic Callister Craft Soda.

It pitches the sodas in a language familiar to the craft-beer scene 91Ƶ they are 91Ƶcrafted locally91Ƶ, and made in 91Ƶsmall batches.91Ƶ

Meanwhile, B.C.91Ƶs craft beer reckoning continues.

In November 2024, Central City Brewing in Surrey 91Ƶ maker of Red Racer beer, as well as de-alcoholized brews under the Street Legal brand 91Ƶ sought creditor protection. Court documents outline post-pandemic financial troubles that required it to restructure.

Company president Daryll Frost detailed 91Ƶeconomic challenges91Ƶ including minimum wage increases, labour shortages, higher taxes and higher food and supply costs.

Another factor, Frost91Ƶs court filing said, was 91Ƶreduced demand for alcohol products generally.91Ƶ

Naimi said he was unaware whether demand has actually diminished, though he said recent indications that younger people are drinking less than previous generations are 91Ƶkind of interesting.91Ƶ

Customers at Mocktails said they had a number of reasons for going booze-free.

Hilary Hansen 91Ƶ no relation to the owner 91Ƶ stopped by for alcohol-free tequila to make margaritas. She said she can91Ƶt drink alcohol because she91Ƶs pregnant.

91ƵObviously the baby91Ƶs the biggest concern, but I would say in general I would like to drink less outside of being pregnant,91Ƶ she said. 91ƵIt91Ƶs not the alcohol, it91Ƶs the taste, so I just want something really nice in a cocktail that I can enjoy and not have any negative health impact for either me or, right now, the baby.91Ƶ

91ƵHaving options like this is really nice,91Ƶ she said.

Enrique Rodriguez, the husband of Mocktails91Ƶ owner, said he91Ƶs also reduced his alcohol intake after initially not wanting to follow Hansen down a sober path.

He said that at parties with his family in Mexico, he used to see alcohol as 91Ƶthe climax of freedom, but it91Ƶs not.91Ƶ

Now, he said he alternates between alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks on nights out.

91ƵFor me it91Ƶs like an awakening,91Ƶ he said. 91ƵI can make better decisions to say, 91ƵOK, I had enough, I gotta go, you know, tomorrow I have things to do91Ƶ and boom, I had the best of both.91Ƶ





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