- Words by Jane Mundy Photography by Don Denton
We know that a good cook can serve up memories from faraway places or offer a ticket back to childhood.
If you91裸聊视频檙e craving currywurst like you once scarfed down in Berlin, a pretzel at Oktoberfest, schnitzel at a Michelin-star restaurant in Munich or spaetzle that your mother lovingly made, go directly to , where chef Maxime Durand will transport you to Deutschland and satisfy your cravings.
But don91裸聊视频檛 just take my word for it. Patron Duane Bell had only just returned from Austria and Germany when I met him at Eva91裸聊视频檚.
91裸聊视频淕ermans and Austrians take their schnitzel seriously, so I was shocked at how good it was at an eatery in Victoria,91裸聊视频� said Duane. 91裸聊视频淭he currywurst was so good that it took me back to the street stall in Berlin, and all four of us ordered seconds91裸聊视频攁s well as every appetizer on the menu.91裸聊视频�
Like most Austrians, Duane takes schnitzel seriously. 91裸聊视频淵ou can tell there91裸聊视频檚 a lot of pride behind this food, and combined with great service we are thrilled to discover this eatery91裸聊视频攎y German and Austrian tastebuds zing.91裸聊视频�
Eva91裸聊视频檚 menu is simple and spare, but the flavours are complex and the portions are big. For instance, Maxime adds 10 spices, perfectly balanced, to his currywurst, and ginormous schnitzels barely fit on the dinner plate. The breading is crisp and greaseless and the meat so tender. You91裸聊视频檒l find classic choices such as schweineschnitzel (German pork schnitzell), roesti and raclette, but with modern twists. Fresh, local produce and the eggplant schnitzel91裸聊视频攑repared sous vide with a side of rutabaga and sauerkraut91裸聊视频攚ill bring a vegetarian back for more. I will return for a plate of braised red cabbage alone.
You won91裸聊视频檛 know from the menu that almost everything, from schnitzels and spaetzle to pretzels and pickles, are haus-made at Eva91裸聊视频檚 and there91裸聊视频檚 even a smoker in the kitchen to smoke ham hocks and bacon, thanks to chef Maxime and his sous-chef Emile pulling double shifts.
One afternoon, I witnessed the pretzel prep. The dough is fermented overnight and chilled. Once about four dozen are shaped, they are dipped in an alkaline solution to caramelize the dough and proofed for half an hour before baking.
91裸聊视频淲e try to serve them hot-out-of-the-oven just before dinner time,91裸聊视频� Maxime explained.
And getting back to the currywurst, it91裸聊视频檚 classic Berlin street food, served with dollops of curried ketchup and potato chips. North America91裸聊视频檚 equivalent is the steamed, smothered hot dog at the hockey game or street stall91裸聊视频攂ut it91裸聊视频檚 way better. Just for starters, Maxime91裸聊视频檚 ingredients don91裸聊视频檛 include preservatives.
Naturally, there91裸聊视频檚 a decent beer selection at Eva91裸聊视频檚 with lager and pilsner on tap to wash down your wurst. And if you91裸聊视频檙e not starved for a full meal but want a snack with that stein anytime after 4 pm, go for the big and chewy, soft and twisty pretzel with mustard butter. But be warned: it91裸聊视频檚 addictive.
Breakfast is an important meal in Germany. There91裸聊视频檚 a German saying: Iss dein Fr眉hst眉ck wie ein Kaiser (eat your breakfast like a king), which at Eva91裸聊视频檚 refers to brunch; it will soon open for lunch as well.
Some items on the dinner menu are featured with a twist, such as schnitzel hollandaise and cured trout Benny with a mouth-watering sauerkraut pancake91裸聊视频攈old the bread.
The space itself is like the menu: small and unpretentious with a low-key vibe, whimsical d茅cor with a nod to a ski chalet and just enough kitsch on the walls.
You91裸聊视频檝e got to hand it to anyone opening a restaurant during the pandemic. Added to the fray, German food sometimes gets a bad rap, often perceived as heavy and stodgy: boiled sausages and potatoes and cabbage covered in cream and served by round men wearing lederhosen in beer halls. Austrian cuisine fares better perception-wise: considered more spa-like and sophisticated.
But when Victoria91裸聊视频檚 Rathskeller Schnitzel House said auf wiedersehen after half a century, there wasn91裸聊视频檛 much else in the city serving schnitzels and steins, and people crave comfort food in stressful times.
Chef Maxime, who previously helmed the kitchen at the award-winning Agrius, saw an opportunity. However, he says, it was nerve-wracking opening in November 2021 because nobody knew if the pandemic would get worse.
91裸聊视频淎t the same time, people wanted to experience something new, although we aren91裸聊视频檛 re-inventing the wheel. Sure, I have doubts sometimes when I wake up, but after a few beers they fade away, and questioning yourself is part of the learning experience,91裸聊视频� he said, laughing. 91裸聊视频淎s well, restaurant restrictions were lifting, so we had a bit of momentum right off the bat91裸聊视频攊t was like a slow opening and now we are ready for a busy summer.91裸聊视频�
Maxime chose not to deliver or offer take-out because 91裸聊视频渟chnitzel doesn91裸聊视频檛 travel well.91裸聊视频� Comfort food is a source of hearty, warming pleasure year-round and that is something you91裸聊视频檒l find at Eva Schnitzelhaus.
Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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