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91ƵAlways a reason to buy91Ƶ: Young shoppers keep cosmetics hot despite inflation

91ƵYou91Ƶre spending on something that gives you gratification immediately91Ƶ
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Canadian shoppers aren91Ƶt letting inflation deter them from buying beauty products. The cosmetics category has been soaring even as consumers lament higher prices on everything from groceries to apparel.n this Jan. 23, 2013 photo, An employee applies make-up on a client at the Sephora store in Sao Paulo, Brazil on Jan.23, 2013. THE CANADIAN PRESS/AP/Andre Penner

In Keon Zhang91Ƶs household, it started with a rite of passage: his eight-year-old discovering a pimple.

91ƵShe was like, 91ƵDaddy, I need to get rid of them 91Ƶ I need a skin care routine,91Ƶ91Ƶ said the chief executive of beauty brand Back to Earth Skin.

91ƵAnd then, here my son comes up and he91Ƶs like, 91ƵDo I need it?91Ƶ91Ƶ

For others, the impulse to dive into a beauty regimen has come from the endless scroll of social media posts showing influencers slathering on Drunk Elephant skin care products, reaching for Dior91Ƶs lip oil and swearing by Sol de Janeiro91Ƶs Brazilian Bum Bum cream.

The flurry of purchases they have inspired in the middle of an economic downturn has confirmed what the industry has long known: beauty is hot, even when the propensity to spend is not.

Leonard Lauder 91Ƶ heir to the Estee Lauder cosmetics empire 91Ƶ coined the term 91Ƶlipstick effect91Ƶ in the early aughts, when many countries were in the throes of a recession, to describe the way customers with less to spend were still willing to splurge on a small item.

Now, the trend is playing out again as younger shoppers flood the market and inflation remains above the Bank of Canada91Ƶs two per cent target, weighing on spending power but not dampening the inclination to 91Ƶtreat yourself.91Ƶ

91ƵWhen you91Ƶre a little bit constrained and you91Ƶre a little stressed on your financial side, you tend to cut the big luxury items, so then you spend on smaller luxury items,91Ƶ Zhang said.

91ƵSkin care is sometimes pricey, but it91Ƶs not like going on a cruise. You91Ƶre spending on something that gives you gratification immediately.91Ƶ

And shoppers aren91Ƶt the only ones getting a glow.

LVMH reported about $12 billion in revenue last year across its perfume and cosmetics businesses, which includes Christian Dior, Guerlain, Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, Loewe and Benefit.

In its selective retailing category, where beauty mecca Sephora resides, revenue hit $25.9 billion, up from $21.5 billion in 2022. Sephora declined to comment.

LVMH91Ƶs experience was part of a wider pattern. Research firm Circana found beauty category sales grew 18 per cent in the first nine months of 2023 in Canada from the same period in 2022. They were up 91Ƶan astonishing91Ƶ 47 per cent from 2021, despite almost 80 per cent of Canadians it surveyed saying the high cost of living had them curtailing spending.

The firm named skin care, makeup and fragrances as the fastest-growing general merchandise categories, outranking video game hardware, toy-building sets and even portable beverageware (hello, Stanley cup boom).

While some of the beauty industry91Ƶs resiliency comes from the lipstick effect, Angus McOuat said social media and influencing are also driving recent growth.

91ƵAt least 50 per cent, if not more, of millennials, gen Z are making their product decisions in this category based on social media and directly what they saw online,91Ƶ said the McKinsey & Co. partner, who leads the consultancy firm91Ƶs Canadian consumer and retail practice.

His daughter, for example, picked up a beauty regimen after watching 91Ƶget ready with me91Ƶ videos, where posters explain their makeup and wardrobe choices.

91ƵShe does it every night,91Ƶ he said. 91ƵI91Ƶm not sure why she needs skin care at 12, but she feels she does.91Ƶ

Skin care has been a particular boon for the industry because brands see more elasticity in this part of beauty budgets and shoppers picking up these kinds of products are less likely to trade down when prices rise.

They also believe the more they spend on a product in the category, the better results they will see, McOuat said.

91ƵIf you91Ƶre with a skin cream that you like and it works and you feel like it91Ƶs sort of making your skin feel better and look younger 91Ƶ that91Ƶll be one of the last things you would want to drop,91Ƶ he said.

Back to Earth Skin, a Vernon, B.C.-based company specializing in natural, vegan and cruelty-free products, is one of the many companies benefitting from this thinking.

Its business grew 18.4 per cent between 2022 and 2023 and its online division increased 24.8 per cent over the same time period.

91ƵWe just skyrocketed, flew and I can tell you 2024, it91Ƶs even going to be higher than that for us,91Ƶ Zhang said.

Irene Doody, who leads category management for beauty at Shoppers Drug Mart, also foresees the the sector remaining hot.

In its most recent quarter, Shoppers91Ƶ parent company Loblaw Cos. Ltd. reported drug retail sales, which includes cosmetics, rose 7.4 per cent to $2.6 billion. The increase reflected 91Ƶongoing strength91Ƶ in beauty sales, Loblaw said.

91ƵThere91Ƶs always a reason to buy beauty. There91Ƶs always something new,91Ƶ Doody said.

91ƵCertain parts of our population, they are definitely interested in that innovation, and I don91Ƶt know where they get their money, but they definitely are buying.91Ƶ

Some of those buyers are looking for 91Ƶindulgence91Ƶ or an 91Ƶemotional lift.91Ƶ Others are opening their wallets because of influencers who can make a product go viral overnight.

And yes, many of these shoppers are young, 91Ƶcurious91Ƶ shoppers with 91Ƶtime on their hands, so they91Ƶre at the malls.91Ƶ

91ƵBut I was at the mall when I was that age, too,91Ƶ Doody pointed out.

All of these shoppers, along with skin care and products to repair damaged hair she sees gaining ground this year, will help the beauty market continue to rise, Doody predicted.

91ƵI think we91Ƶve only scraped the surface.91Ƶ

Companies in this story: (TSX:L)

Tara Deschamps, The Canadian Press





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