The humble baguette 91Ƶ the crunchy ambassador for French baking around the world 91Ƶ is being added to the U.N.91Ƶs list of intangible cultural heritage as a cherished tradition to be preserved by humanity.
UNESCO experts gathering in Morocco this week decided that the simple French flute 91Ƶ made only of flour, water, salt, and yeast 91Ƶ deserved United Nations recognition, after France91Ƶs culture ministry warned of a 91Ƶcontinuous decline91Ƶ in the number of traditional bakeries, with some 400 closing every year over the past half-century.
The U.N. cultural agency91Ƶs chief, Audrey Azoulay, said the decision honors more than just bread; it recognizes the 91Ƶsavoir-faire of artisanal bakers91Ƶ and 91Ƶa daily ritual.91Ƶ
91ƵIt is important that such craft knowledge and social practices can continue to exist in the future,91Ƶ added Azoulay, a former French culture minister.
The agency defines intangible cultural heritage as 91Ƶtraditions or living expressions inherited from our ancestors and passed on to our descendants.91Ƶ
With the bread91Ƶs new status, the French government said it planned to create an artisanal baguette day, called the 91ƵOpen Bakehouse Day,91Ƶ to connect the French better with their heritage.
Back in France, bakers seemed proud, if unsurprised.
91ƵOf course, it should be on the list because the baguette symbolizes the world. It91Ƶs universal,91Ƶ said Asma Farhat, baker at Julien91Ƶs Bakery near Paris91Ƶ Champs-Elysees avenue.
91ƵIf there91Ƶs no baguette, you can91Ƶt have a proper meal. In the morning you can toast it, for lunch it91Ƶs a sandwich, and then it accompanies dinner.91Ƶ
Although it seems like the quintessential French product, the baguette was said to have been invented by Vienna-born baker August Zang in 1839. Zang put in place France91Ƶs steam oven, making it possible to produce bread with a brittle crust yet fluffy interior.
The product91Ƶs zenith did not come until the 1920s, with the advent of a French law preventing bakers from working before 4 a.m. The baguette91Ƶs long, thin shape meant it could be made more quickly than its stodgy cousins, so it was the only bread that bakers could make in time for breakfast.
Despite the decline in traditional bakery numbers today, France91Ƶs 67 million people still remain voracious baguette consumers 91Ƶ purchased at a variety of sales points, including in supermarkets. The problem is, observers say, that they can often be poor in quality.
91ƵIt91Ƶs very easy to get bad baguette in France. It91Ƶs the traditional baguette from the traditional bakery that91Ƶs in danger. It91Ƶs about quality not quantity,91Ƶ said one Paris resident, Marine Fourchier, 52.
In January, French supermarket chain Leclerc was criticized by traditional bakers and farmers for its much publicized 29-cent baguette, accused of sacrificing the quality of the famed 65-centimeter (26-inch) loaf. A baguette normally costs just over 90 euro cents (just over $1), seen by some as an index on the health of the French economy.
The baguette is indeed serious business. France91Ƶs 91ƵBread Observatory91Ƶ 91Ƶ a venerable institution that closely follows the fortunes of the flute 91Ƶ notes that the French munch through 320 baguettes of one form or another every second. That91Ƶs an average of half a baguette per person per day, and 10 billion every year.
The 91Ƶartisanal know-how and culture of baguette bread91Ƶ was inscribed at the Morocco meeting among other global cultural heritage items, including Japan91Ƶs Furyu-odori ritual dances, and Cuba91Ƶs light rum masters.
91ƵThomas Adamson, The Associated Press