It was Karl Lagerfeld91裸聊视频檚 final curtain 91裸聊视频� even though he wasn91裸聊视频檛 there.
Celebrities, models and fashion industry peers who had gathered at Chanel91裸聊视频檚 catwalk show Tuesday held a minute91裸聊视频檚 silence to bid adieu to the iconic couturier, who died last month and did not want a public funeral.
Guests wept as his final collection for the Parisian house, co-designed by new artistic director Virginie Viard, was then presented at Paris91裸聊视频� Grand Palais amid a cinematographic set: a mountain village covered in peaceful snow high above the clouds.
It was, it could be said, Lagerfeld91裸聊视频檚 runway in the sky.
Stars including Penelope Cruz spoke to The Associated Press to pay tribute to the legend who left an indelible mark on the global fashion industry in a six-decade career.
Some of Tuesday91裸聊视频檚 highlights at Paris Fashion Week:
LAGERFELD91裸聊视频橲 FINAL SENDOFF
Designer Lagerfeld had made his antipathy for a public funeral clear. So Chanel91裸聊视频檚 fall and winter show, the last collection of a couturier that had designed hundreds, was a fitting sendoff.
The display featured both genuine emotion and ironic spectacle, Lagerfeld91裸聊视频檚 trademark.
Ahead of the runway show, its models, including Cruz, stood solemnly in the fake snow by an Alpine chalet and resting ski equipment. A gentle bell rang out as poignant recordings of Lagerfeld91裸聊视频檚 voice boomed out and echoed across the vast venue.
Guests including actresses Marion Cotillard and Kristen Stewart, models Claudia Schiffer and Naomi Campbell, singer Janelle Monae and U.S. Vogue Editor Anna Wintour observed a one-minute silence. Many wept.
In a moment that perfectly captured Lagerfeld91裸聊视频檚 universe, the initial silence was interrupted by the bark of a small white dog kept in a sparkling Chanel shopping basket by a front-row guest.
READ MORE: Chanel: Iconic couturier Karl Lagerfeld has died
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A CLASSIC CHANEL COLLECTION
The show used the Alpine theme as a touchstone to produce a classical Chanel winter collection.
It was all about keeping warm, with short ankle boots protected beneath tweed fedoras in looks the house said belonged to 91裸聊视频渆legant mountain dwellers.91裸聊视频� Oversize, woolen statement coats that hung heavily had a distinct historic feel, a mood that Lagerfeld often liked to evoke.
They were twinned with contrasting patterns 91裸聊视频� such as houndstooth in thick, baggy pants 91裸聊视频� to produce a clever visual kinesis.
Ethnic and Alpine motifs fused as white patterning on cinched and belted A-line skirts, and ski-wear came in eye-popping hues of pink, blue and red.
The obligatory tweed jackets this season were trimmed with a thick wool braid.
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THE FUTURE FOR CHANEL
This was the first official collaboration between Lagerfeld and his longtime studio head Virginie Viard, who will succeed him at the house.
Much like the Chanel designs, the creative handover appeared seamless.
It91裸聊视频檚 perhaps unsurprising: Although Viard has held no official role as designer until now, she is known to have worked closely with the late designer across all of Chanel91裸聊视频檚 numerous design channels, including couture.
It91裸聊视频檚 too early to tell if Viard will lead the powerhouse in a new direction, but signs are that she won91裸聊视频檛.
The fact that Chanel chose someone who has worked in exuberant Lagerfeld91裸聊视频檚 shadow for years indicates it hopes to continue his financially successful vision and approach that catapulted the iconic house from the creative wilderness during the 1980s into the multibillion-dollar powerhouse it is today.
Management could have chosen a successor with a big, splashy name 91裸聊视频� such as Lanvin91裸聊视频檚 former designer Alber Elbaz, an icon in the industry, who91裸聊视频檚 currently unemployed.
The fact they didn91裸聊视频檛 speaks volumes.
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STARS REMEMBER LAGERFELD
Penelope Cruz, who modelled in the Chanel show, shared a memory of a midnight walk with Lagerfeld in New York in December.
91裸聊视频淔or me that was a magical moment, walking hand in hand in Central Park at night in winter 91裸聊视频� hearing his wonderful and funny stories,91裸聊视频� she said.
Cruz said she will remember the kindness of Lagerfeld, whom she91裸聊视频檇 dreamt of meeting since being little. She recalled that he took care of her father during a posh Paris dinner.
91裸聊视频淗ow kind and respectful he was to my dad, even if they didn91裸聊视频檛 speak the same language 91裸聊视频� that always stayed with me,91裸聊视频� she told the AP.
American singer and songwriter Janelle Monae spoke of her surprise at being given a sketch Lagerfeld had drawn of her during a performance in Russia.
91裸聊视频淗e was seated in a theatre. I was on stage. And he sat there the whole time and sketched me dancing,91裸聊视频� she said. 91裸聊视频淚 didn91裸聊视频檛 know his talents were so big.91裸聊视频�
Monae said she still has it 91裸聊视频渋n a little box in my house. It91裸聊视频檚 very emotional.91裸聊视频�
German fashion photographer Ellen von Unwerth recalled how she would always speak with the polyglot German-born designer backstage in their native tongue after each Chanel show comparing it to 91裸聊视频渂eing in a bubble in between thousands of people.91裸聊视频�
She said that Lagerfeld, who famously hid behind shades 91裸聊视频� known as his mask 91裸聊视频� once took them off in front of her.
She said he turned to her and said: 91裸聊视频淚 don91裸聊视频檛 like to show my eyes. Because they look sad.91裸聊视频�
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LOUIS VUITTON CREATES POMPIDOU CENTER SET
Louis Vuitton staged an incredible recreation of one of Paris91裸聊视频� most famous, and controversial, buildings: The Pompidou Center.
Guests including actresses Emma Stone, Alicia Vikander and Jennifer Connelly gathered in an annex inside the oldest courtyard of the Louvre and looked around inquisitively as they discovered another Parisian landmark with its famed blue, white, red and green piping.
The link between the set and the clothes was somewhat tenuous, save for colorful elements of geometry.
Designer Nicolas Ghesquiere said he was, above all, inspired by the spirit of Pompidou91裸聊视频檚 environs, in the bustling centre of Paris.
91裸聊视频淚t91裸聊视频檚 a fascinating incubator of a neighbourhood91裸聊视频� I love that impression of a sartorial melting pot,91裸聊视频� he said.
Many of the 57 tightly fitting styles that riffed on the 80s were cinched by a large square buckle belt at the waist.
And though Ghesquiere has earned a reputation for minimalism, this collection simply teemed with bustling detail.
Pops of bright colour created contrasts in ensembles that emphasized the neck.
A series of Mondrian and geometric-print looks evoked paintings exhibited in the Pompidou, which houses France91裸聊视频檚 National Museum of Modern Art.
But they came across a little heavy-handed, delivered in overly bold colours.
The diverse collection comprised many beautiful garments, but it was a little hard to pin down.
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MIU MIU GETS DARK
Miuccia Prada was another designer to draw in the stars at the art-infused collection of her little sister brand Miu Miu in Paris.
Actors Joel Edgerton and Chloe Sevigny joined 91裸聊视频淕ame of Thrones91裸聊视频� star Gwendoline Christie on the front row.
A darker mood than normal pervaded the fall-winter designs.
Models in sharp black capes or gently sculpted 90s camouflage print paraded beside decor that comprised artwork with screens projecting stark and figurative images of people and contemporary life.
Dark tights came on all the 48 looks
This season, Prada adorned the neck with silk bows, ribbons and circular bands of fur in the styles of the 70s.
At one moment the dark musing turned to joy: The camouflage print blossomed into a bright set of florals on loose flower-power 70s skirts.
It was a clever twist 91裸聊视频� typical of the atypical designer.
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Thomas Adamson is at Twitter.com/ThomasAdamson91裸聊视频擪
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This story has been corrected to fix the spelling of Janelle Monae91裸聊视频檚 surname.
