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Cambodian fishermen turn to raising eels as key lake runs out of fish

Lake used to more than quadruple in size during the rainy season
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Eel farmer Luy Nga, 52, sits next to jars where eels are reared at Tonle Sap complex. north of Phnom Penh, Cambodia, Wednesday, July 31, 2024. (AP Photo/Heng Sinith)

Em Phat, 53, studies his eel tanks with the intensity of a man gambling with his livelihood.

For millennia, fishermen like him have relied on the bounty of the Tonle Sap in Cambodia, Southeast Asia91裸聊视频檚 largest lake and the epicenter of the world91裸聊视频檚 most productive inland fishery. But climate change, dams upstream on the Mekong River that sustains the lake, and deforestation in the region have changed everything.

There aren91裸聊视频檛 enough fish and living by the lake has become dangerous as storms intensify due to global warming. 91裸聊视频淏eing a fisherman is hard,91裸聊视频 he said.

Phat hopes that raising eels 91裸聊视频 a delicacy in Asian markets like China, Japan and South Korea 91裸聊视频 will provide a way forward. He raises eels in different tanks: translucent eel eggs bob gently in Small glass aquariums. Voracious glassy larvae swim in plastic tanks. Larger tubs have bicycle tires to provide places for juvenile eels to hide.

Raising eels can be profitable but it91裸聊视频檚 risky. Eels are notoriously difficult and expensive to raise. They need constant pure, oxygenated water and special food and are susceptible to diseases. Phat lost many eels when a power cut stopped his oxygen pumps, killing the fish. But he91裸聊视频檚 optimistic about the future. Living on land, instead of on the lake, also means that his wife, Luy Nga, 52, can grow vegetables to eat and sell, so they are making enough money to get by.

91裸聊视频淭he eels have value and can also be exported to China and other countries in the future,91裸聊视频 he said.

That fishermen like Phat can no longer rely on the Tonle Sap, literally the 91裸聊视频淕reat Lake,91裸聊视频 for their livelihood reflects how much has changed. The lake used to more than quadruple in size to an area larger than the country of Qatar during the rainy season, inundating native forests and creating the perfect breeding ground for diverse fish to thrive.

The 91裸聊视频渇lood pulse,91裸聊视频 a natural process of periodic flooding and droughts in the river system helped make the Mekong Basin the world91裸聊视频檚 largest freshwater fishery, with nearly 20% of all freshwater fish worldwide caught there, More than 3 million people live and fish by the lake: a third of all 17 million Cambodians rely on the fisheries sector and up to 70% of Cambodia91裸聊视频檚 intake of animal protein is from fish.

But dams upstream in China and Laos are cutting the Mekong91裸聊视频檚 flow, weakening that flood pulse. The lakes have been depleted by overfishing and much of the forest surrounding it has been logged or burned for farmland. Cambodian authorities are reluctant to estimate the extent that fish stocks have declined.

This year, the flood pulse was delayed by about two months, according to the Mekong Dam Monitor, a research project.

In this shattered ecosystem, raising eels or other fish can provide fishermen like Phat with a 91裸聊视频渂uffer,91裸聊视频 said Zeb Hogan, a fish biologist at the University of Nevada who has worked in the region for decades. 91裸聊视频淎quaculture, such as eel farming, is a way for people to take more control over their income source and livelihood,91裸聊视频 he said, adding that it also allows them to raise fish that they know will fetch higher prices.

Phat is one of more than thousands helped by a program run by the Britain-based nonprofit VSO to boost incomes of people living by Tonle Sap. VSO provides his baby eels and has taught him how to raise them.

Eels are in high demand in Cambodia and elsewhere, said Sum Vy, 38, a coordinator at VSO, so they91裸聊视频檙e profitable. When fishermen know how to farm eels and hatch the babies, others can follow.

91裸聊视频淣ot only can he or she earn the money to support their family, they can share this knowledge and skill with other people,91裸聊视频 he said.

Expanding aquaculture is helping increase Cambodian exports. Its fish production increased 24-fold in the two decades leading up to 2021 and, unlike its neighbors, most of its fish catch is inland, according to the Food and Agricultural Organization or FAO. Much of it is consumed domestically and exports have grown sluggishly. Earlier this year, the government launched a scheme to improve fish processing technologies and address food safety concerns, hoping to begin exporting more fish to Europe next year.

Cambodia has signed trade agreements with China and began shipping frozen eels to Shanghai last year.

91裸聊视频淭his export will contribute to economic growth, creating jobs for our farmers and fishermen,91裸聊视频 Heng Mengty, the export manager of the Cambodian fish exporter told China91裸聊视频檚 official Xinhua news agency.

The promised growth can91裸聊视频檛 come soon enough for Cambodians living in fishing communities around the lake. Some families live in homes that float year round, others on homes built on stilts up to 8-meters-high (26 feet), to keep them above floodwaters during the rainy season. Fishing is the only form of subsistence for many, but signs of decay are evident. Fishing nets catch only very small fish, or worse, nothing at all. Families speak of giant fish that are now rarely seen. The catch is a fraction of what it used to be.

Even 10 years ago, Som Lay, a 29-year-old fisherman said, the lake was teeming with fish. But illegal fishing has increased and some families have already given up fishing and are trying to find land where they can grow rice.

91裸聊视频淭he entire village 91裸聊视频 my family and others 91裸聊视频 is facing these difficulties,91裸聊视频 he said.





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