- Story by Jane Zatylny Photographs by Lia Crowe

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Until recently, I thought I knew everything I needed to know about sherry. I knew my mother occasionally poured herself a small glass to help her sleep. I knew it added richness and depth to my French onion soup recipe. But most of all, I knew I could never enjoy drinking it because it just was too sweet.

I was wrong.

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91裸聊视频淢ost people tell me that same story,91裸聊视频� says Emily Henderson, partner and general manager of Victoria91裸聊视频檚 Bodega Tapas and Wine Bar.

As she sets out several small glasses of sherry and little dishes of almonds, olives, blue cheese and sliced ham, she explains why this fortified wine is so misunderstood: 91裸聊视频淧eople just don91裸聊视频檛 really give sherry a chance. Typically, their only experience with it is their granny91裸聊视频檚 sherry, which may have been super sweet, or maybe they tried a sherry that had gone bad.91裸聊视频�

Emily didn91裸聊视频檛 know much about sherry herself when Bodega first opened in 2014.

91裸聊视频淚t was having a bit of a renaissance, so we thought it would be fun to highlight it on our menu,91裸聊视频� she says. Now a serious enthusiast, Emily sees sherry as a remarkable, regionally specific drink. 91裸聊视频淚t91裸聊视频檚 had a bad rap for a long time, but it91裸聊视频檚 so nuanced and it91裸聊视频檚 just meticulously made,91裸聊视频� she says.

Emily has also converted members of her staff, like bartender Chili Berisoff.

91裸聊视频淚 didn91裸聊视频檛 know anything about sherry until I met Emily,91裸聊视频� says Chili. 91裸聊视频淪herry has unlocked a whole new world for me. It91裸聊视频檚 trained my palate and made food so much more pleasurable.91裸聊视频�

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Sherry has been produced in southern Spain91裸聊视频檚 91裸聊视频淪herry Triangle91裸聊视频� since about 700 AD. The main production towns of Jerez, Sanl煤car de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa Mar铆a offer chalky soil and a unique microclimate that is ideal for aging, storing and blending the fortified wine. Naturally occurring yeasts, known as flor, are an essential component of the sherry-making process and impart sherry with its trademark nutty flavour.

There are six different types of sherry 91裸聊视频� fino, manzanilla, amontillado, oloroso, cream and Pedro Xim茅nez. Most of the paler, drier varieties are made from Palomino grapes, while the sweeter, richer sherries are made from Pedro Xim茅nez and Muscat grapes.

To separate the wheat from the chaff, Emily provides pairing guidelines to her staff to help patrons choose a sherry.

91裸聊视频淲e tell them, 91裸聊视频業f it grows, pair with a fino. If it swims, pair with a manzanilla. If it flies, chose an amontillado. If it runs, try an oloroso or a palo cortado. And if it91裸聊视频檚 blue cheese or dessert, try a Pedro Xim茅nez.91裸聊视频�91裸聊视频�

But there aren91裸聊视频檛 really any hard and fast rules for pairings, she says.

91裸聊视频淎 lot of it is individual taste. A fino can be equally great with seafood or a salad.91裸聊视频�

I91裸聊视频檓 intrigued as I slowly lift a pale-coloured sherry called Hidalgo Fino Clasica to my lips. I savour its dry, tart-apple notes then pop a plump Cerignola olive into my mouth. The pairing is incredible: the briny, refreshing sherry perfectly complements the buttery flavour of the mild, meaty olive. I know one thing for certain: This isn91裸聊视频檛 your grandmother91裸聊视频檚 sherry.

Nor are the dozen or so other sherries Bodega offers by the glass on its drinks menu.

91裸聊视频淚t91裸聊视频檚 amazing how much they vary from one another,91裸聊视频� Emily says. 91裸聊视频淪ome are salty and very dry, while others are so sweet you can pour them over ice cream.91裸聊视频�

Bodega serves sherry flights of three one-ounce pours so beginners and connoisseurs can compare a range of sherry styles.

91裸聊视频淭he more you learn about sherry, the more you appreciate it,91裸聊视频� Emily says.

Both fino and manzanilla sherries are biologically aged in barrels covered by a layer of the flor yeast. Manzanilla sherry, a fino that91裸聊视频檚 sent to age on the coast, has a distinctive briny note.

91裸聊视频淚f skinny dipping had a flavour, this would be it,91裸聊视频� says Emily.

Amontillado is aged under the flor, then exposed to the air, giving it a darker quality and a more complex flavour. Oloroso, palo cortado and Pedro Xim茅nez sherries are called oxidative sherries, meaning that they are all exposed to oxygen. Oloroso sherries are exposed for a longer period of time than other sherries, giving them their dark, rich flavour and higher alcohol content. Palo cortado is a rare sherry that91裸聊视频檚 blended in a similar way to amontillado and oloroso sherries, while dark mahogany or black sweet sherries are made by fermenting either Moscatel or Pedro Xim茅nez grapes.

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Next up for me though is Lustau Los Arcos, a dry amontillado. This type of sherry is aged entirely under its yeast flor; all of its nutty, yeasty flavour comes from this biological aging process. Smooth, light, soft in tone, Los Arcos91裸聊视频檚 aftertaste imparts a faint hazelnut flavour that seems to go on for days. It is perfection paired with a single slice of the house Schinkenspeck ham.

Then it91裸聊视频檚 onto Nutty Solera, a medium sherry that tastes a bit like burnt sugar and offers a smooth finish.

91裸聊视频淲e playfully call this one the 91裸聊视频榞ateway91裸聊视频� sherry, because it tastes like maple syrup on pancakes,91裸聊视频� says Emily. 91裸聊视频淚t91裸聊视频檚 great paired with our confit almonds, and also with chorizo.91裸聊视频�

My next sample is the Hildago Triana PX. Pedro Xim茅nez (or 91裸聊视频淧X91裸聊视频�) grapes are sun-dried before fermentation, which gives these sherries their sweetness. PX wines are also blended with other sherries to create medium and cream sherries. I try this elixir with a few crumbs of blue cheese for a delicious riot of salty, sour and sweet flavours. Then Chili appears and offers me a single stewed fig. Its signature sweetness pairs beautifully with the palo cortado91裸聊视频檚 toffee, prune, raisin, black tea and pistachio flavour notes.

The last taste of the day is the crema de la crema, a 30-year-old palo cortado called Apostoles. Like all sherries, Apostoles is produced in a cascading 91裸聊视频渟olera91裸聊视频� system of maturation barrels that blend young wine with old. The young wine feeds the flor, and in this case, each wine that is added to the barrels is at least 30 years old.

91裸聊视频淭his sherry is like an exclamation point after a meal,91裸聊视频� says Emily. 91裸聊视频淚t can also be enjoyed all by itself.91裸聊视频�

And this is how I experience this precious final glass of sherry. Dry, but smooth as silk, Apostoles offers complex notes of almond, maple, apricot and citrus.

Despite its renaissance in recent years, this distinguished, historic wine remains an enigma, something Emily and her staff are working hard to change. My experience at Bodega has certainly altered my perception of sherry, so much so that I now find myself dreaming about exploring sherry in its birthplace. As 19th-century Spanish novelist Pedro Antonio de Alarc贸n y Ariza once said: 91裸聊视频淭he destiny of a thousand generations is concentrated in each drop. If the cares of the world overwhelm you, only taste it, pilgrim, and you will swear that heaven is on earth.91裸聊视频�

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